Installing a voltmeter: Difference between revisions

Line 38:

The display has a 2-3mm lip that is wider than the body. This holds it in place from above. On the backside there is a metal rectangular retaining clip that holds the body against the mounting surface. There is also a trim piece held by four screws, but it's doubtful that most people would choose to use it with a sportbike.

The wiring on the unit is quite simple. You run two wires; one to positive and one for ground. Add a 3A or 5A inline fuse. Use a power source that is hot only when the key is on. The aux/accessory wires get power ALL of the time, even when there is no key in the ignition. Don't use them. A good location to tap into is the battery side of the horn button. (If you put it on the other side, it'll only work when you honk your horn.) Another option is to get your power from an [[Installing an ~~electrical distribution block~~|electrical distribution block]]. Whatever you do, running the new wires along OEM wires will usually keep them out of the way.

The wiring on the unit is quite simple. You run two wires; one to positive and one for ground. Add a 3A or 5A inline fuse. Use a power source that is hot only when the key is on. The aux/accessory wires get power ALL of the time, even when there is no key in the ignition. Don't use them. A good location to tap into is the battery side of the horn button. (If you put it on the other side, it'll only work when you honk your horn.) Another option is to get your power from an [[Installing an accessory fuse box|electrical distribution block]]. Whatever you do, running the new wires along OEM wires will usually keep them out of the way.

The connections to the meter should be well protected from the weather by the fairings, but if you're concerned you can coat them with [[Waterproofing your electrical connections|dielectric grease]].

@@ Line 38: / Line 38: @@
 The display has a 2-3mm lip that is wider than the body. This holds it in place from above. On the backside there is a metal rectangular retaining clip that holds the body against the mounting surface. There is also a trim piece held by four screws, but it's doubtful that most people would choose to use it with a sportbike.
-The wiring on the unit is quite simple. You run two wires; one to positive and one for ground. Add a 3A or 5A inline fuse. Use a power source that is hot only when the key is on. The aux/accessory wires get power ALL of the time, even when there is no key in the ignition. Don't use them. A good location to tap into is the battery side of the horn button. (If you put it on the other side, it'll only work when you honk your horn.) Another option is to get your power from an [[Installing an electrical distribution block|electrical distribution block]]. Whatever you do, running the new wires along OEM wires will usually keep them out of the way.
+The wiring on the unit is quite simple. You run two wires; one to positive and one for ground. Add a 3A or 5A inline fuse. Use a power source that is hot only when the key is on. The aux/accessory wires get power ALL of the time, even when there is no key in the ignition. Don't use them. A good location to tap into is the battery side of the horn button. (If you put it on the other side, it'll only work when you honk your horn.) Another option is to get your power from an [[Installing an accessory fuse box|electrical distribution block]]. Whatever you do, running the new wires along OEM wires will usually keep them out of the way.
 The connections to the meter should be well protected from the weather by the fairings, but if you're concerned you can coat them with [[Waterproofing your electrical connections|dielectric grease]].