Removing/replacing the rear wheel: Difference between revisions

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====Axle nut loosening technique====
====Axle nut loosening technique====


This does not have to be a 2-man job. You need a fair amount of force on the castle nut side and just a little bit on the other side to keep the axle from spinning. Straddle the bike, standing facing the rear. Use a breaker bar/ratchet/wrench (17mm socket) against the ground on the right (brake) side of the axle to keep it from turning. Position your other [[What should a good set of tools include?|breaker bar]] (24mm socket) pointing toward the front of the bike on the castle nut (left/chain) side. Push down on it with your right hand, which will loosen it (counterclockwise). Let gravity and your body weight help apply the turning force. Since you are straddling the bike, it should be difficult to knock it over. You may want to rest your left shoulder on the pillion seat as you do this. And no, you don't have to have long legs. This is short-person certified.
This does not have to be a 2-man job. You need a fair amount of force on the castle nut side and just a little bit on the other side to keep the axle from spinning (not always necessary - it sometimes stays put.) Straddle the bike, standing facing the rear. Use a breaker bar/ratchet/wrench (17mm socket) against the ground on the right (brake) side of the axle to keep it from turning. Position your other [[What should a good set of tools include?|breaker bar]] (24mm / 15/16" socket) pointing toward the front of the bike on the castle nut (left/chain) side. Push down on it with your right hand, which will loosen it (counterclockwise). Let gravity and your body weight help apply the turning force. Since you are straddling the bike, it should be difficult to knock it over. You may want to rest your left shoulder on the pillion seat as you do this. And no, you don't have to have long legs. This is short-person certified.


====Reattaching the wheel====
====Reattaching the wheel====