How to shim the cush drive: Difference between revisions
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[[Category:Final Drive]] | [[Category:Final Drive]] | ||
The sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats" with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash. | The sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats" with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash. | ||
A new cush drive is $42 plus S&H at Ron Ayers. | |||
With the rear wheel [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|off the bike]] and [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|properly supported]] (be mindful of the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off. | With the rear wheel [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|off the bike]] and [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|properly supported]] (be mindful of the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off. | ||