Replacing the wheel bearings: Difference between revisions

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What you'll find when you pull the wheel off and look are two bearings and a tube of some soft metal that runs between the inner races. When you snug the axle down, it pulls everything tight on the center race of the wheel bearing, and that should be the ONLY place it's tight. But stock bearings are only sealed on one side and usually won't last the life of the bike. You want to replace them with double sealed bearings. These will have the same part number, but will have an SS or ZZ at the end of the number.

The easiest way to find the part # you need before you start disassembling everything is to go to the [http://~~www~~.ronayers.com/~~fiche/getyear~~.cfm~~?man=ka&groupid=3060~~ Ron Ayers parts fiche] and look up the part ~~#'s~~ for your year of bike. Yes, every year should be the same, but you need to be sure. You don't, however, have to (or want to) order them there, or even at a bike shop. Search out the bearing supply place closest to you. If you can't find one, a good auto parts shop should have what you need.

The easiest way to find the part number you need before you start disassembling everything is to go to the [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki Ron Ayers parts fiche] and look up the part numbers for your year of bike. Yes, every year should be the same, but you need to be sure. You don't, however, have to (or want to) order them there, or even at a bike shop. Search out the bearing supply place closest to you. If you can't find one, a good auto parts shop should have what you need.

The body of the bearing part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part ~~#'s~~. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.

The body of the bearing part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part numbers. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.

Here's what you should find when looking up the part #s for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:

Here's what you should find when looking up the part numbers for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:

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 What you'll find when you pull the wheel off and look are two bearings and a tube of some soft metal that runs between the inner races. When you snug the axle down, it pulls everything tight on the center race of the wheel bearing, and that should be the ONLY place it's tight. But stock bearings are only sealed on one side and usually won't last the life of the bike. You want to replace them with double sealed bearings. These will have the same part number, but will have an SS or ZZ at the end of the number.
-The easiest way to find the part # you need before you start disassembling everything is to go to the [http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/getyear.cfm?man=ka&groupid=3060 Ron Ayers parts fiche] and look up the part #'s for your year of bike. Yes, every year should be the same, but you need to be sure. You don't, however, have to (or want to) order them there, or even at a bike shop. Search out the bearing supply place closest to you. If you can't find one, a good auto parts shop should have what you need.
+The easiest way to find the part number you need before you start disassembling everything is to go to the [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki Ron Ayers parts fiche] and look up the part numbers for your year of bike. Yes, every year should be the same, but you need to be sure. You don't, however, have to (or want to) order them there, or even at a bike shop. Search out the bearing supply place closest to you. If you can't find one, a good auto parts shop should have what you need.
-The body of the bearing part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part #'s. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.
+The body of the bearing part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part numbers. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.
-Here's what you should find when looking up the part #s for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:
+Here's what you should find when looking up the part numbers for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:
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