Lowering the bars on a budget: Difference between revisions
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This article will help you lower your handlebars without spending a bunch of cash or making your body into a pretzel via [[I'd like to know more about clipons|clip-ons]]. | This article will help you lower your handlebars without spending a bunch of cash or making your body into a pretzel via [[I'd like to know more about clipons|clip-ons]]. | ||
First, get a set of risers from an early model Kawasaki ZX600, or (most unlikely) a 1986-87 Ninja 250. This set of ZX600c risers were obtained online for $12.00 shipped. | First, get a set of risers from an early model Kawasaki ZX600, or (most unlikely) a 1986-87 Ninja 250. This set of ZX600c risers were obtained online for $12.00 shipped. | ||
[[image:IMAG1950.jpg|150px]] | [[image:IMAG1950.jpg|150px]] | ||
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Find yourself a grinding tool and square off to the 250 shape. Once you've done that, it's an easy swap. | Find yourself a grinding tool and square off to the 250 shape. Once you've done that, it's an easy swap. | ||
WARNING: Kawasaki's usual | WARNING: Kawasaki's usual [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Removing_%26_replacing_bar_ends#Removal|Big Bunch O' Red Loc-Tite] is on the bolt holding the bar in the riser. | ||
With clip-ons, there is the problem of the bars hitting the tank at full lock. With these, it's close to the tank on the right side (but not hitting). It's aso pretty close turning turn to the left, but the brake line attached to the master cylinder hits the instrument panel first. | |||
Lower than stock; higher than clip-ons. | Lower than stock; higher than clip-ons. | ||